Just under a week ago, we returned from a trip up to the North East to complete the first of our catsitting duties for 2025, although we extended it to just under two weeks with a break in Derbyshire on our way back home. We again broke up the journey on the way up with an overnight stop at Wentbridge; however in startling news that may well rock the world of our core audience we stayed in a ‘Courtyard Room’, a first for us and a pleasant upgrade on the pre-booked accommodation!
Our week in Sunderland was largely uneventful. Early in the week we did a couple of extended walks, taking advantage of the mild but rain free weather to mosey around Mowbray Park and accompanying statues; one in particular (the memorial to the Victoria Hall Disaster, which took place in 1883 and in which 183 children aged between 3 and 14 were crushed to death due to compressive asphyxia) was a disturbing reminder of the past. Newspaper reports at the time triggered a mood of national outrage. The resulting inquiry led to legislation that public entertainment venues be fitted with a minimum number of outward opening emergency exits, which led to the invention of “push bar” emergency doors. This law still remains in force.
We also visited Backhouse Park, a first time for Mrs. No Name despite living in the town (city) for the first 46 years of her life – sad to say then, that she was quite underwhelmed by its layout. I was less disappointed but we could both agree it was one less on the tick box list. We also met G’s parents for coffee and cake and proved to ourselves that we could still climb up to the Penshaw Monument. The cats were generally in the ‘acceptable behaviour‘ scoring range, but have to report that the score was reduced from the usual ‘very good‘ rating by the disgraceful plate smashing incident when ‘investigating’ what was on said plate (even though it was under clingfilm at the time). Billy took umbrage for a few hours but then returned, apparently with ‘cat selective amnesia syndrome‘. We also took in a Sunderland Antiquarian talk on the Thursday evening which was too niche for me sadly.
On the Sunday, we made our way from S&G’s down to the View At The White Horse in Woolley Moor on the outskirts of Ashover. We’d stayed here before and always promised to return so sadly distressing to note that it has taken virtually five years to fulfil the promise. The Junior Suite was as fine as we remember it and the food and service was also exemplary – thoroughly enjoyed it. We stayed for the three nights and on the first day we travelled back across the M1 to visit Hardwick Hall. We did try before but the ‘new’ hall was shut and the ‘old’ hall was off limits for some reason that now eludes me.
This time, we managed both, starting with the ‘new’ Hardwick Hall, which has that moniker as it was built between 1590 and 1597 for Bess of Hardwick to a design of the architect Robert Smythson. Hardwick Hall is one of the earliest examples of the English interpretation of this style, which came into fashion having slowly spread from Florence. Its arrival in Britain coincided with the period when it was no longer necessary or legal to fortify a domestic dwelling. We thought a few of the on-line reviews were a little testy, presumably befuddled by the house’s reluctance to conform to their preconceived notions of what a house interior should look like. We thoroughly enjoyed it, impressed by the large amount of fine tapestry and furniture from the 16th and 17th centuries, listed with the embroidery and other contents in an inventory of the home’s contents dating from 1601. The Sea Dog Table is an especially important piece from around 1600, and the Eglantine Table has an inlaid top of interest to musical historians. It was often dark to preserve the tapestries but apparently that’s a negative to some. I was particularly impressed with the 16th Century take on the oven hob! Each individual stove had its own fire below – efficient and on view top left in the collage.
We also went to the ‘old’ hall, the original Manor home, which was used as guest and service accommodation after the new hall was built. It is administered by English Heritage on behalf of the National Trust. Many of the Old Hall’s major rooms were decorated with ambitious schemes of plasterwork, notably above the fireplaces. Though most of the building is unroofed, impressive fragments of plasterwork remain (protected by preservative coatings and rain-shields). The collage of the old hall includes a feeble effort to showcase the plasterwork. It was still impressive in its own way and we did manage to climb the four floors of Hardwick Old Hall’s towering roofless shell, from where we got the best view of the plaster decoration as well as an impressive view of the new Hall. The Old Hall would have been perfectly acceptable for most but I guess Bess of Hardwick, as the richest woman in England after Queen Elizabeth I, wanted a house conceived as a conspicuous statement of her wealth and power. Job done!!
On the second day we took the very long drive (five minutes) to revisit Ashover, previously visited in 2021 as we were gingerly finding our feet after lockdown. It was much as we remembered it as we took the circular walk up to Marsh Green Farm Shop and Café, revisited and imbibed at one of the four pubs in Ashover, took a coffee break in the Stamp Coffee Shop (and post office etc. etc.). Even took a snap of the cottage we rented in 2021 – I am aware at this juncture that my behaviour might be considered a mite precious, but I’m confident in my own skin so right back at the naysayers 🙂 .
Incidentally, and I know it’s late in the day, but the picture to the right is of the pub and restaurant. The rooms of The View are set behind this building and overlooking the valley beyond – just thought I should mention it, to avoid the raft of confused comments from the hordes of readers out there. After another lovely breakfast we set off on our journey home. We deliberated long and hard and eventually opted to go further cross country and then go down the A1 but to get there ended up proving a little more tortuous than expected; but then we don’t know what the M1 would have had up its sleeve! Overall, it wasn’t too bad and at least we avoided the nightmare that is currently to be found as a result of the repair work on the Orwell Bridge. Yet again, onwards and we didn’t spare the horses.
Superb recollection