The end of a fairly busy few weeks just finished with a five night break in Liverpool in what proved to be the excellent Pullman Hotel near the Albert Docks. We weren’t blessed with an abundance of good weather but that was about the only item lacking on what was an otherwise excellent break…
The hotel’s location was chosen partly because of the short stroll to Albert Docks and the proximity to at least three museums and the Tate Gallery but we first took the hop on hop off bus to get the lay of the land, get our bearings and scope out other potential attractions for the next few days. Following a suitably laconic Liverpudlian commentary on the bus, we decided to make the International Slavery Museum and Maritime Museums our first port of call. This is in the Maritime Museum and they’re both brilliant. This is a really well put together narrative that informs in a very sensitive way. A real must – thoughtfully thought provoking. An important factor in the rise of the British Empire and no attempt is made to hide Liverpool’s key part in this contextually horrific chapter nor the huge benefits afforded the city and the country. It has taken a long time to dedicate an exhibition to slavery and acknowledge the role of the city. As such it is essential viewing. Both it and the adjoining Maritime Museum are beautifully put together and so, rather than endlessly repeating myself, surfeit to say that all the cultural visitations put many more lauded and visited museums to shame.
Day two started out with the Beatles Story, again down in Albert Docks. This was a tad pricey (all other museums proved to be free, equally ridiculous in truth). This started poorly, but then opened out to provide a fine impression of the Beatles and their relatively shot career. Good to see a significant age range amongst the visitors, and I’m sure for the younger generations especially the presentation and club ‘recreations’ may well have proved a revelation. Imagine it might have been a little tiresome when crowded but, other than at the entrance, it was perfectly fine for us.
Followed the Fab Four with another free resource – the Liverpool Museum, which is just a short stroll at the other side of the Albert Docks (via the Billy Fury monument). It is itself a stunning new Museum and is the world’s first national museum devoted to the history of a regional city, demonstrating Liverpool’s unique contribution to the world. Helped by having the added benefit of a John Lennon/Yoko Ono exhibition, which was interesting despite the fact that I’ve never really bought into Ono’s art aesthetic.
Day three began with an excursion around the city centre, and more specifically the area that housed the original Cavern Club. Obviously now a tourist magnet , it was still worth a visit and the ‘replacement Cavern built opposite was a pretty good facsimile. Had to be done I’m afraid. We then did the churches (Mrs. No Name always has to, it’s a ritual), including the Cathedral, where we thoroughly enjoyed the Tower Experience with lovely views, and the Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral (Paddy’s Wigwam); and, most movingly of all, the Church of St. Luke (the bombed out church), badly damaged by bombs during the Liverpool Blitz in 1941 and which has been left a roofless shell ever since, giving rise to its nickname. It now stands as a memorial to those who died in the war. The church and its surrounding walls, gates, and railings are recorded in the National Heritage List for England as designated Grade II* listed buildings.
Day four was originally pencilled in as the day we were to make the trip to the Lowry museum at Salford Quays, but as Liverpool had so much more to share, we decided to stay in the ‘locale’. Even I’m sick of repeating the plaudits, so I’ll just rest and simply emphasise the overall point by highlighting the excellence of the superb library (including the wonderful Picton Room), then the Walker Gallery, then the fascinating St. George Hall tour and finally the Museum of the World. A fascinating and eye opening day and all free. I wonder if the locals appreciate the accessible history on their doorstep? Ironically however, The Lowry at Salford Quays is now for another occasion, so what do we know?
A Few from “More than a Few” (all camera phone unfortunately)
