Slowly but surely….as lockdown tentatively releases its grip (hopefully) we ventured a little futher afield and took a week’s break in peak district Derbyshire in Ashover, where we were joined for the first weekend by Mrs. No Name’s son and girlfriend SJ & G. The cottage was lovely and large, so we could adapt to the limiting circumstances, although we at least are now fully vaccinated.
First night down to Ashover’s Black Swan for an excellent evening meal – nice to finally eat out again and also actually imbibe some alcohol in a public house; almost forgotten what that looked like. On the next day (after a lovely breakfast at the Marsh Green Farm Shop cafe), we went on a very pleasant, carefully researched ramble organised by SJ and G. They used Ordnance Survey maps and everything, very professional! Should have brushed up on them, then I might have been prepared for the one in one ascent near the beginning of the walk! Seriously though, excellent ramble in the Ashover environs, across the valley, into Milltown (with associated dining pub The Miners Arms) and then along the valley next to the river and back into Ashover.
Sunday saw us at the Heights of Abraham (prebooked) and, despite the mixed weather, it proved to be a thoroughly entertaining visit, although the the three course lunch at the Vista restaurant proved a little exhausting (have you noticed how comments akin to this one always tend to occur after the event). Food for thought :-). Anyway, Yorkshire men everywhere might consider it a tad expensive, but actually the whole visit is included in the ticket price – it’s not just the cable car, so not bad at all and well worth a visit. A better day weather wise would have made it an even better experience but in fairness this was the only rain we saw all week.
After SJ and G had left to return to their work duties, we continued with a trip to Crich Tramway Museum, which we thoroughly enjoyed, not least to nostagically look back at Sheffield and North East trams, take a trip back in time on the tram ride itself, and walk the woodland trail that included some innovative wood sculptures along the way. For the more technically minded, or curious, in 2010 the Great Exhibition Hall was redisplayed with the ‘Century of Trams’ exhibition. The exhibition takes you on a fascinating journey through a hundred years of tramway development, from 1860 – 1960, taking in horse trams, steam trams and electric trams. If you are in any way a ‘tram spotter’, or specifically interested in the history of tram transport, I suspect you would be thoroughly enthralled; if not, then there is still plenty to see and do (and I certainly didn’t expect to see the Derby Assembly Rooms fully ‘resurrected’ in all its glory as part of the recreated village’s main street). Only poor point? Hopeless directions for actually finding the place, given the depth of material to enjoy when you actually get there.
We also decided to tackle the Fabrick, otherwise known as Ashover Rock. Despite the steep climb, the views over the valley from the rock and observation panel were worth the effort. The Fabrick sits on an area of heathland 299 metres above sea level. It is the highest viewpoint for a considerable distance, and the majority of the landscape east of this point to the coast is lower. Consequently, on a clear day, views can be seen of nearby Chesterfield with its Crooked Spire, Bolsover Castle, Hardwick Hall, some suburbs of the South Yorkshire home city of Sheffield, and the surrounding counties of Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire, Staffordshire. It is also suggested that on a clear day and with occular assistance you can see as far as Lincoln Cathedral. We had the clear day, but no telescope so on this occasion we’ll just have to accept the guide books assertion.
We also managed to visit Cromford Mills. Another exemplar of ground-breaking industrial buildings set within a lovely natural environment, this was another productive visit. Home of Sir Richard Arkwright’s first mill complex, birthplace of the modern factory system and internationally recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the website says…). Having said that, the first thing we did was don the masks and get a (very good) coffee and unusual but lovely cherry and almond scone. We hadn’t booked in advance so we didn’t get to do a tour or visit the Arkwright Experience but you never know – we might be back! We also visited St. Mary’s Church, where the Arkwrights are interred, and climbed Scarthin Rock for lovely views of the Mill area and Willersley Castle (the Arkwright family home), although Arkwright died in 1792 before the building was completed. It more recently operated as a hotel, but was put up for sale in 2020.
We thoroughly appreciated the week away. Good company, a lovely cottage, excellent Farm Shop Cafe (a cut above, it has to be said) and a pretty village, which was small but surprisingly well provisioned. In particular, three pubs (four if you count the Kelstedge Inn), all of which of course had to be sampled. Ashamed to say, had forgotten just how resplendent the peak district is and, coupled with predominantly unbroken sunshine, it made an excellent starter for ten.