Cuba!

Just back from a two week trip to Cuba with friends. If ever a country betrayed the contradictions inherent in a changing political and economic landscape, then Cuba probably takes first prize. Which made the trip extremely interesting and enjoyable, if a little on the warm side. In our opinion, you couldn’t go all the way to Cuba and fry on a beach for the duration (although many do, apparently) so we managed five nights in Havana, two in colonial Trinidad and then spent a week in Varadero recovering!

Havana was fascinating. Cuba is changing and I wonder for how much longer the old, real Havana will remain. Go now and you experience the beauty of the sometimes decaying architecture, the plethora of American classic cars from the 1920s onwards and the small scale entrepreneur uneasily coexisting alongside the nationally owned and sometimes bland establishments. But for now, the pockets of extreme poverty are still all too readily apparent and hard to reconcile with the system success stories such as the excellent, but apparently fading health service and extremely high literacy rate. Latest figures indicate a 99.8% rate, which is phenomenal by any standards, even more so when set against the 1959 rate which was measured at between 60-76%. 

First impressions of the city were gained via a classic Ford car and an extremely enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide on an afternoon orientation tour. The guide was unfailingly optimistic about his country’s future, proud of its successes and quietly critical of its failings; and just as interested in the politics and lifestyle in the UK as we were in the current conditions in Cuba. The old town is a real life history lesson and the Cuban people are unfailingly polite and helpful but some of the living conditions were extreme (see photo).

The ‘private’ classic car taxis should at least be tried and are an entertaining lottery – you could be sitting in a really well maintained one or wondering which bit will fall off before you reach the end of your journey. Wandering the old town as we did most days, visiting the historic sites, eating in the new privately owned paradors, it felt like change was happening all around you. The key will be to see how many will benefit. How Cuba (and Havana) develops over the next decade or so will be illuminating. Despite our guide’s unfailing idealism, it seems that the political system will not necessarily be the critical factor. When the embargo eventually breaks down, as it surely must, what will Cuba have to offer that will generate the economic recovery that its population deserves, given that the developed world has globalised international trade so successfully at the expense of developing countries. China is the obvious success story, but its resources are significant when set against those of Cuba, and China’s economic advances at a macro level come at a huge personal cost for many of its poorer population. The Cuban capital is definitely a must see unless you only want a ‘chocolate box’ holiday experience. It was however very hot!

We then took a five hour car journey from Havana across country to the Spanish colonial town of Trinidad. We were all hoping the town was worth the long ride! It appears that the clock generally stopped ticking in this town around 1850, horse and cart outweighs the car and is still a primary source of transport (for tourist and local alike) and colonial style mansions built on sugar fortunes are still very much in evidence.

Wholly disproportionate to its actual size, Trinidad is one of Cuba’s greatest attractions; in essence, it’s a few square blocks of cobblestone streets, pretty pastel-coloured 18th- and 19th-century houses, palaces, and plazas. It is also still very much a working town, although locals are savvy enough to know that catering to the tourists is a sensible and productive way to eke out a living. There appeared to be a marked improvement in overall living standards when compared to the capital. Because it was built on the sugar industry I was rather foolishly expecting to see a grander, brasher town than it is; instead there were plenty of nods to its 16^th century beginnings and a quiet, sleepy charm that can be explored at leisure over a couple of days – which is just as well, because it was very hot! 

Four hours in the car and we were at our Varadero beach hotel for seven nights of relaxation. Having got a little sniffy at the start of the blog about only coming to Cuba for the beaches, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend some time on the beach after the travelling. The beaches in Varadero seemed stunning to me, but beaches aren’t really my forte. The sand is blindingly white, the water is turquoise and, if you are fortunate enough to have the sun while you are there (more than likely), this is a great location to unwind and recharge your batteries. We could have done without someone who shall remain nameless throwing herself out of a hammock and damaging her back – just for a while, thought we might have to check out the quality of the travel insurance! And did I mention that it was hot? Well, in Varadero, it was very hot! Definitely should be visited, but only if you’ve seen some of the real Cuba first.

If you are younger, I’m sure you could do longer in the ‘real’ Cuba and less on the beach, but for those of a certain age, the balance was perfect. But we all agreed we could have stayed much longer in a transitional Havana to experience a little more of its unique and ever changing charm – here’s hoping that whatever changes take place work for the majority and not the minority. A small selection of photos we took on the trip can be found here.